I was picked up by Lio Morín, a smiling cowboy who spoke English with a Southern lilt, due to many years spent in Oklahoma. He’d lately moved residence to the ranch the place he grew up, which he mentioned his great-grandfather, a silver miner from Guanajuato, had purchased almost 70 years ago. By contrast, Hotel Amparo, in an 18th-century mansion the place a mayor once lived, has just 5 rooms. Owned by a pair of Houston art collectors, it contains an interesting mix of contemporary works and antiques.

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